Ex-Google chef's bistro impresses with contemporary mood

Calafia Café adds modern, relaxed style to local shopping center, serves unimpressive cuisine at high prices

posted March 15, 2009

by Alan Chen of Campanile

Elizabeth Petit

Omelets at Calafia Café come with assorted toppings like bacon, scallions and hash browns on the side. Other selections on the unpredictable and varied menu include five spice chicken and the tofu scramble.

A previously out-of-reach dream has finally come true for former Google chef Charlie Ayers. He has opened his own restaurant targeted to customers of all ages and backgrounds: Calafia Café.

Ayers has taken what he created at Google: making wholesome and delicious food, and he has tried to make it the focus of his restaurant.

Restaurant provides modern feel

His desire to appeal to a variety of people is immediately evident upon entering the cafe. The ambience created by the slightly dim lights and "family style" seating gives off a warm, welcoming vibe.

There are several seats lining the inside of the wall facing the street, allowing small groups to sit at a counter-like area.

This retro-modern feel puts a twist on an old-fashioned diner, combining the excitement of sitting on a counter with the sophistication of a four-star restaurant.

Adjacent to the counter is a party table that seats large parties of about 8 to 12 people.

However, in lieu of an overly embroidered tablecloth, the table is uncovered and made of plain wood surrounded by cute stools, which is simple yet reminiscent of a traditional Italian family setting.

Further back in the restaurant are traditional tables and an additional counter that faces directly into the kitchen.

Though the decorations, such as glass milk jugs that cover the lights, are slightly unconventional, they contribute to the overall message conveyed by the casual seating arrangement: a comfortable, relaxed restaurant with high quality food for people of all ages to appreciate.

Appetizers are unimpressive

Of the appetizers that Calafia Café has to offer, the papas con ajo ($6.50) immediately captures customers' eyes.

Essentially, it is a fancy name for French fries seasoned with garlic, herbs and spices paired with a slightly spicy and tangy red sauce.

The fries are quite crispy and well cooked, but they are obviously overseasoned, as each bite is an overly salty sensation.

Although the fries are horribly over-seasoned, the seasoning itself is good, but only in moderation. The dipping sauce that is paired with the fries is also satisfying and is similar to a spiced-up version of ketchup.

However, similar to the fries, the flavor is overpowering. One small dip in the sauce causes the flavor of the fries to disappear, and only allows the flavor of the sauce to come through.

Another interesting appetizer that Calafia Café has to offer is its daily tempura ($9.00), or Japanese-style fried vegetables. Depending on the season, the vegetables offered vary, but currently, some of the vegetables include broccoli and green beans.

To keep the theme of Asian-inspired food, the tempura is presented on a metal rack that is supported by a bamboo-like frame, and the tempura is artistically stacked in a pyramid shape.

Though the appearance of the tempura is appealing, the taste falls short. The crust around the vegetables is too soft and not crunchy enough, while the vegetables inside are slightly raw and soggy.

In addition, the dipping sauce, which is traditionally made with dashi, a Japanese stock; mirin, Japanese rice wine; and shoyu, Japanese soy sauce, lacks a depth of flavor and ca not be tasted when the tempura is dipped into it.

Main courses improve on starters

While the appetizers are not impressive, the entrees are more so. The angry pork wrap ($9.50), one of the signature dishes offered by Calafia Café, is excellent.

The pork is extremely tender, and carries a delightful spicy flavor that is not overwhelming. In addition, the jicama jalapeno slaw adds another level of flavor to the wrap, simultaneously cleansing the palate with the sweet jicama and finishing with a spicy kick from the jalapeno.

Furthermore, the whole wheat tortilla brings the dish together, adding an earthy and natural flavor to the dish. Overall, the flavors of the wrap work compliment each other wonderfully, creating a taste that is sweet, savory and spicy.

Another entrée that is satisfactory, though less so than the angry pork wrap, is the fiery bottom barbecue pork rice bowl ($10.75).

Similar to the angry pork wrap, the fiery bottom pork rice bowl is made with shredded pork covered with barbecue sauce on a bed of brown rice accompanied with yams and wilted baby spinach. The dish is then topped with a quail egg and micro greens.

Although each individual aspect of the dish is satisfying on its own, the components did not seem to fit each other well.

The sweetness of the barbecue sauce is a bit overwhelming compared to the flavor of the yams and spinach, while the quail egg and micro greens seem like they are randomly added for visual appeal.

The dish seems overdone and overcomplicated, as not everything on the dish is necessary.

Even though the flavors do not complement one another, creating a somewhat cluttered and chaotic dish, this mistake can not match the fatal flaw that ruins the dish entirely: the clearly undercooked brown rice.

The rice, which should be the base for the dish, is a glaring mistake that even a child could notice.

The brown rice is hard and raw, to the extent that the rawness of the rice is visually noticeable.

Even if the best chef in the world were to make the perfect pork and most delicious barbecue sauce, undercooked brown rice would turn away customers.

Even though the fiery bottom barbecue rice bowl commits a culinary faux pas, the Wolfgang pizza ($11.00) makes up for it.

Made with shredded duck, pumpkin seed pesto and oaxacan-style mozzarella and goat cheese, this pizza is sure to delight anyone who tries it.

The duck, tender and moist, is cooked to perfection and when paired with the pesto, which is made with pumpkin seed rather than the traditional pine nuts, creates for a savory delight.

The mozzarella and goat cheese also added to the dish by creating a slightly heavy and rich flavor, which complements the delicateness of the duck and pesto.

The pizza is simple and comforting; none of the ingredients are excessive, and all of the flavors work wonderfully together.

Desserts are the highlight of the café

After eating so many savory dishes, it's only natural to want a sweet dish to finish a meal.

At the top of the list of desserts is the death by chocolate, which just by its name is promising.

At first glance, it looks like an unreasonably small piece of cake surrounded by a web of chocolate sauce and caramel, but upon closer inspection, the dessert is not actually cake, but an extremely dense mousse-like dessert.

The dessert is decadent and smooth, bringing out the best qualities of chocolate.

In addition, another appealing aspect of the dessert is its refinement of flavor.

Most chocolate desserts flood the consumer with a wave of oversweetened chocolate flavor, while this dessert does not.

It is most likely a combination of dark and milk chocolate: slightly sweet with a hint of bitterness.

As a dessert, this is extremely satisfying and delicious, despite its deceptive appearance.

Although Calafia Café displays a welcoming feeling towards its customers, the food is not extraordinary.

Though the names and ingredients seem unique and impressive, the food is only above average.

However, that is not to say that it doesn't have some surprising dishes. Despite the undercooked rice and the overseasoned appetizers, overall, Calafia Café is able to offer a good culinary experience.